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Compatibility information is not available for this item. Oops, something went wrong. This part is compatible with below vehicle s. This part is compatible with below vehicle s matching this. A quantity of 2 is recommended. Page 2 of 10 previous page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Next page. Portions of the information contained in this table have been provided by pirate-jack-asheville-nc.
Item specifics. Modified Item:. Suitable for:. Custom Bundle:. Core Charge:. Interchange Part Number:. Placement on Vehicle:. Manufacturer Part Number:. Pirate Jack. Fitment Type:. With the two nuts removed the master cylinder is easily removed by simply sliding it off the mounting studs.
Unfortunately, removal of the power brake booster is not as easy. Although it is connected to the firewall with only four studs and nuts, the nuts are located high on the firewall behind the gauge cluster and above the brake, clutch and gas pedals. In order to gain access to these nuts the drivers seat needed to be removed along with a ventilation duct and a position switch for the brake pedal. With those components removed I used several long sockets and universal joints to remove the four nuts.
All told removing these four nuts took about two hours. Although removing the nuts was not overly difficult, it certainly required a fair bit of patience. With the nuts removed from the studs the power brake booster can simply be pulled away from the firewall. Below is a photo of the complete power brake booster. To the left you can see the hydraulic pushrod and vacuum seal which came out of the booster on their own when it was inverted.
With the power brake booster out of the car I started disassembly. To see full size images, click on each image. With the clevis and dust boot out of the way I took to the booster housing with a wire wheel to remove the worst of the dirt, grease, rust and scale from the housing.
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